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THE 18 BEST RESTAURANTS IN SOHO
Since London Fashion Week is back in Soho for another season, we bring you our roundup of the restaurants to be seen in before, after and maybe even during the shows...
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
After stints in New York and Taiwan, Xavier Boyer, who helped launch London's L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in 2006, is back at the helm. Try the counter, where the cool folk hang, or head upstairs to La Cuisine, where everyone else squeezes in. Confit tuna and lemongrass seabass are the dishes to go for.
Morden & Lea
Named after the cartographers who first put Soho on the map, this is a new brasserie, over two floors, fromformer Claridge's head chef Mark Sergeant. You'll eat really well here: tasty tartines, roast duck with garlic potatoes and gypsy tart with clotted cream, a signature dish that goes back to Sergeant's days with Gordon Ramsay.
Chi Kitchen
In the unlikely surroundings of Debenhams, hidden away at the rear of the ground floor, this new all-day pan-Asian from Eddie Lim, the man behind Mango Tree, is justwhat the mean streets around Oxford Circus need. They do seabass with chilli and lime, a fiery chicken curry and, for breakfast, Chinese waffles with berries.
Shuang Shuang
Prawn heads with lemongrass, Dingley Farm pork and black-fleshed chicken with Chinese berries are just three of the big-flavoured broths at London's first Chinese hotpot restaurant, a cross between the Stockpot of yore and Yo Sushi. Grab delicious extras from the conveyor belt to add to the sunken pot and Bob's your uncle.
Bocca Di Lupo
This charming, buzzy, relatively inexpensive Soho joint reminds us that Italian cooking is much more of a local, seasonal affair than pasta and a veal chop. Dishes, which come in small or large sizes, are referenced regionally - fried Roman carciofi, perhaps, or partridge with bagna càuda from Piedmont - and the all-Italian wine list is very strong.
The Palomar
Less is Moor at the Palomar, an outpost of Jerusalem's Machneyuda restaurant and one of London's most talked-about places to eat right now. the menu zigzags the Middle East and ducks into Moorish Spain and the Maghreb. Start with nishnushim (Hebrew for snacks) and move on to sublime truffled polenta in a jar, Persian oxtail stew and rose-scented milk pudding. It's mad, mashugana, happy and carefree and the only problem is hooking a reservation.
Bao
It started life as a market stall in Hackney's Netil Market but BAO is now settled into a permanent home in Soho. The Taiwanese eatery is known for its gua bao (steamed milk buns), made every day on the premises, with fillings like braised pork with peanut powder, fermented greens and coriander (amazing), and lamb shoulder with daikon pickle (doubly amazing). Pig-blood cake is also offered for the brave. Wash down with lashings of Taiwanese beer, sake or whisky. No reservations.
Yauatcha
Is it a patisserie? Is it a teahouse? Is it a dim sum restaurant? Turning 11 this year, Yauatcha is all three. On the ground , it serves what are very likely London's most exquisite dim sum at lunchtime, before the space morphs into a teashop mid-afternoon, with beautiful cakes and pastries, which you can eat on the premises or take away. At dinner, downstairs is the way to go, for those divine taro croquettes and venison puffs. A new Yauatcha opened in the City in May this year.
Blanchette
This bucolic little Frenchie tucked just inside Soho has bare brick walls, tables too close together and scarcely enough room to park even the tiniest derrière. But never mind. The food is heaven: ripe, runny cheese, crispy frog's legs in a paper cone and braised lamb with anchovy in a sauce soubise. The star of the show, though, is the triple-decker croque monsieur, one of the most delicious things we have eaten in the past year.
Nopi
Yotam Ottolenghi's 'brasserie with a twist' is decorated with cool white marble and brass, the more formal ground-floor dining room leading down to a basement with shared benches and communal tables. What do we love here? What don't we! Mixed-seed lavosh with avocado, golden and 'candy' beetroot with labneh and, of course, the famous twice-cooked baby chicken with lemon myrtle salt and chilli sauce.
Bone Daddies
If you thought the appetite for dirty food was on the wane, check out the Friday-night queue for a table at Bone Daddies, the tiny, no-res Soho ramen bar that punches above its weight. Now a new late-night menu, from 11pm, features chilli pork-belly buns and mazemen ramen - a soupless noodle dish best washed down with an Ume Shower cocktail (umeshu, amaretto and bitters), which is not just dirty, it's absolutely filthy.
Ember Yard
From the talented people behind Salt Yard and Dehesa, Ember Yard is pretty unprepossessing from the street - on our first visit we walked right past it. But on the other side of the door, in a warm and atmospheric space that feels like old Soho, lies a ferociously good small-plates restaurant with a Basque grill and a Spanish heart, even if it does take the odd foray into Tuscany. There's great charcuterie, sharp and stinky Spanish (and Italian) cheeses, roasted and chargrilled ribs with a seductive quince glaze and salt-marsh lamb chop with salsa verde.
Ham Yard
Those awfully clever Firmdale people (Soho and Covent Garden Hotels, the Crosby Street Hotel in New York) have done it again, with a gorgeous new property a stone's throw from Piccadilly Circus. And the restaurant's a humdinger. Think piping-hot eggs royale or pancakes for breakfast, and calf's liver with pancetta and capers for dinner under the stars - Ham Yard has a courtyard so divine that dinner reservations in summer are at a serious premium. Plus there are small plates, focaccia melts and ice-cream sandwiches all day alongside the vodka and gin martinis in the bar.
Jinjuu
City trader turned USA Food Network regular and former executive chef at the London Playboy Club, the unstoppable Judy Joo has opened her first restaurant here in London. And kimchi-crazed foodies can't get enough of her lettuce-wrapped barbecued meats, her pork belly tacos with apple and coleslaw or her Korean whole fried chicken. Jinjuu means 'pearl' in Korean, a perfect name for this diminutive restaurant off Carnaby Street, with its bar counter and high tables. 'The kimchi Bloody Mary is the best hangover cure in W1,' coos the multitalented Judy.
L'Escargot
Its red walls and black-lacquered chairs may give L'Escargot the look of an upmarket Chinese restaurant, but this belies its credentials as an 88-year-old franglais restaurant in the best Mrs Beeton tradition. Acquired and reopened last year by the irrepressible Brian Clivaz (of Home House and Arts Club fame), this historic Soho resto does wonderful snails (of course), foie gras with kumquats and a rich coq au vin. Prices are considerate and there's one thing we especially love - the restaurant is DOG-FRIENDLY.
Quo Vadis
The dream team of brothers Sam and Eddie Hart (Fino, Barrafina) and chef, wit and raconteur Jeremy Lee work together to make this one of Soho's liveliest spots. Quo Vadis is not only lovely to look at and comfortable as sin, it also delivers some of London's most exciting real British food with a maximum of flavour and a minimum of fuss. Come here for plovers' eggs, the first asparagus, bloater paste and berry mess. There's also a cracking fry-up for breakfast, with fresh bread from the QV bakery - most people agree that Jeremy Lee's buns have no equal.
Social Eating House
Kick off with a drink upstairs at the Blind Pig and then, if your ears are up to it, head downstairs to eat. Great food and trendy don't always go together, but Jason Atherton wrote the book... This place does wonderful scallops, chorizo dogs and steaks, but put any thoughts of sharing the sharing jars out of your head as you will want these ALL FOR YOURSELF. You'll leave deaf but happy.
Babaji
Alan 'Wagamama' Yau's new pide salonu, or Turkish pizzeria, is a beautiful space where as much attention has been given to the design as to the food: those World of Interiors-worthy exquisite blue-and-white-tiled walls, and the open kitchen around the central wood-burning oven. Meanwhile, topped with minced lamb, chicken or vegetables, the thin-crust pizzas, or pide, are a very clever take on what is essentially fast food, and there are also spanking-fresh meze and stews, as well as super-sweet puddings, all delivered with typical Yau pizzazz.